Adventures in Singapore and a Packing Wakeup Call
We’ve been soaking up the sights, and the Wi-Fi has been persnickety, so Monday Musings had to wait. Today I’m sharing our personal Singapore travel diary, along with a few hard-earned lessons in dressing for humidity.
We arrived in Singapore on very little sleep and were thrilled to check into the Raffles Hotel. We’ve never been on a Tauck tour before, but this felt like a pretty fabulous promise of things to come.
Raffles Hotel Singapore opened its doors in 1887 and remains one of the few grand 19th-century hotels still operating worldwide. What began as a 10-room waterfront bungalow has grown into an expansive, multi-winged, 115-suite landmark, with the kind of proportions that make modern hotel rooms feel like storage closets with better lighting.
The hotel was named for Sir Stamford Raffles, the British colonial official credited with founding modern Singapore. He had nothing to do with the hotel itself, which opened decades later in 1887, but attaching his name to it gave the property an immediate connection to Singapore’s colonial history.
The building is a grand example of British colonial tropical architecture, with white arcades, deep verandas, high ceilings, courtyards, and shaded walkways designed for heat, humidity, and a slower pace of life before air conditioning took over. The hotel also has a tucked-away rooftop pool, which feels slightly unexpected in such a historic property, but very welcome after a day in Singapore’s heat.
The hotel’s most recent major restoration was completed in 2019, reportedly costing about $150 million, preserving the historic character while bringing the rooms and public spaces firmly into the present.
Each suite comes with a dedicated butler, introduced after check-in and available around the clock during your stay. The scale of the place is part of the experience, from the generous suites to the broad verandas, courtyards, and open spaces that give the hotel its unmistakable old-world presence.
We changed and headed out to tour the National Orchid Garden, which was stunning. I quickly discovered I hadn’t packed enough breezy dresses or skirts to handle the high temperatures and oppressive humidity. I also decided sleeveless tops were the only way to go, and was glad I’d packed a few. Here we are inside the Orchid Garden Cool House, where people were lingering for a long time before moving along, us included.
One of the most recognizable sights at Raffles is the liveried Sikh doorman at the entrance. Dressed in a crisp white military-style uniform and white turban, he’s part of the hotel’s long tradition and serves as something of an ambassador for the property. Ours was very funny, and happy to oblige when we asked for a photo.
On our second day, we took a long walking tour of some of Singapore’s historic sites, and my UPF 50 umbrella came out. I’m so glad I packed it because hats get unbearably hot after an hour or so.
After wandering around for what felt like an eternity, then hopped onto a bumboat cruise along the Singapore River. The river was once the busy commercial heart of Singapore, lined with warehouses, trading boats, and merchants. Today, it’s much more polished, with restaurants, restored quays, and gleaming towers along the banks.
I was mostly grateful to be sitting down by then, because a walking tour in Singapore’s heat is not for the casually hydrated.
That afternoon, we went to Spago at Marina Bay Sands, Wolfgang Puck’s first Spago location in Asia. Perched on the 57th floor of Tower 2, it overlooks the city from one of Singapore’s most recognizable buildings, the one that looks like a giant surfboard balanced across the top of three towers. The food was outstanding.
As we left, I got a view of the infinity pool on the roof, which I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t enjoy because I’m not a fan of heights.
After a long day traipsing around Singapore, I needed a fresh shower and clean clothes for dinner at a local Italian restaurant.
This loose, tent-like linen dress was just what I needed, and I wore it the next day.
Day two started with a trip to the Maxwell Food Market, which I assumed had more than food. Uh, no. Our friends ate there and thought it was great. I’m not a brave eater, so I stuck to fresh coconut water.
Next, wandered around more, then grabbed a cab to Parkview Square, often called Singapore’s Gotham Building. It’s a dramatic Art Deco-style office building made with all dark stone, bronze details, statues, and architectural drama. It was completed in 2002, but it looks as if Batman might have held a board meeting there in 1935.
Inside is Atlas Bar, which is just as dramatic, with soaring ceilings, gilded details, and a gin collection so extensive it feels less like a bar and more like a very glamorous library. I discovered a pink rose lemonade that I can source at home.
By this point, I was just a messy puddle, so we headed back to the hotel for another shower before dinner, because our flight was leaving way too early the next morning.
What I learned very quickly is that Singapore is not the place for optimistic packing. Heat and humidity make every fabric choice matter, and the pieces I reached for most were loose, light, sleeveless, and easy to wash or rewear. If you’re heading somewhere tropical, pack for the weather you’ll actually be walking in, not the version you imagined while standing in your closet at home.
I loved Singapore, but it definitely reminded me that travel style isn’t about looking perfect. It’s about staying comfortable enough to enjoy where you are.
Thank you for sharing your Singapore trip. Despite the humidity, it looks like the trip of a lifetime! Would be interested in seeing more on Muji dresses if you find some in the states. Maybe you should consider buying more while you’re there. Safe travels!
I will share more of what they have.
I love this post. Keep them coming. Thanks!
Glad you are enjoying your trip. A good friend of mine (whose father was in the British Army stationed in Singapore) has photos of him sitting on the verandah at Raffles surrounded by big game hunters complete with shooting gear and game. This was back before World War Two. Singapore’s heat is oppressive, very similar to Bangkok’s, but your choice of clothing looks perfect. Bali will be the same.
Thank you for a realistic assessment of what the travel experience is really like in Singapore. We will be there at the end of the year. I will definitely consider my wardrobe carefully. Love your blogs and know that you give real life value. Thank you
Thank you so much Yvette. I’m very happy to hear that my posts are helpful.
I’d love to hear more about the Tauck trip. We only use them for land tours.
When you announced this trip I thought “Singapore in mid-May”. Must be more heat and humidity tolerant than I am. I transited Singapore in early March. We had to find an alternate way home from Nepal when war broke out. Flying east was the only option. We spent a night in a holiday inn Express. All the restaurant seating was open air and I was grateful for my breezy south India wardrobe. That was about as hot and humid as I can tolerate with good humor. You didn’t mention how great Changi is. If you have a trip to Singapore or just a long layover, the Changi Jewel shouldn’t be missed.
We didn’t have time to shop it arriving but plan to when we depart! 🙂
Your pictures are amazing! I loved them all. And it looks like you indeed dressed for the climate with sleeveless and linen. You looked great! I’ve made the mistake a few times of packing for the way I envision things will be like wherever I’m going, and ha, found out I was ALL wrong!! Thanks for sharing!
Lol, it was a big surprise. I like to think of myself as an organized packer. But this kind of humid hot weather proved me wrong.
Beautiful place, thanks for sharing. The first time you travel to a different climate is a learning experience of clothing choices. I live in an area that is below 30 for a couple months a year, but in the 90’s and high humidity for 3 -4 months a year. Floaty clothing, and several showers a day is how I handle it. Have a blessed week!
Very interesting post! Thank you Jennifer.
Liked the perfect black dress, although maybe it was hot. What brand is it? Love the pictures of your trip!
I’ve discovered Shana dresses for hot weather travel. They don’t wrinkle, are very lightweight, and floaty. I literally walked into the shower wearing one after a brutally hot summer day in France, washed the dress right there as well as myself. They dry quickly. I have 4 of them!
It was an old Eileen Fisher cotton shift. Very comfy. I don’t think color matters much with humidity.
Jennifer, I love that you are sharing our travels with us. Please keep doing so!
And Muji!! I LOVE that store. I found one last summer while I was staying in downtown Portland, Oregon and bought so many good things. And, good news–y’all have them in Vancouver (there’s one on Robson street). I went to that one as well, and again, bought so many good things. I wish there were more of them in the US. My son goes to college in Los Angeles, which seems like a perfect place to have one, but there are none in LA. They do have Uniqlo, which I also love. Anyway, happy and safe travels!
We stopped into Uniqlo too. Great prices and the clothes are perfect for the weather. I’m excited to try the
Maje in Vancouver!
Well, I am certainly here for all the travel posts, however many you can manage either during or after your trip! Your photos are wonderful, thanks for taking the time to post!
I’m glad to hear that, Patricia. Thanks
Your pictures are fabulous. Did you get to see the Merlion spew lighted water into Marina Bay at night? We were lucky to travel right by it on our bumboat. The Raffles Hotel was under construction when we visited, so I couldn’t have their famous Singapore Sling cocktail. You’re so right; wearing a hat was miserable. I remember melting in February! I wish I’d thought of an umbrella because you look amazing in that heat and humidity.
We did see it from the Boat ride. Really striking.
Thank you so much for sharing Singapore with us!!!
You look great !!
Thanks Sherri!
Hi Jennifer, what a fabulous post! If nothing else, the photo of that chandelier was worth it (😂) but your advice on realistic packing and what to investigate about your destination is exactly what I needed to hear. We returned home from a trip last night & as I unpacked I was shaking my head about the unrealistic choices I had been lugging around. Thank you, and although it was soggy, your trip looks amazing. Jo
I’ll be doing the same when I get home. I was sadly unprepared.
Love your post! Glad you enjoyed Singapore! My son live and family live there so we visit often. I had to laugh about the showers! Three a day sometimes! I live in sleeveless dresses. I laugh that the first time we went we took a light shell for the downpours and quickly realized we would NEVER wear them. The only difference when it rains is that your outside is as wet as your inside (sweat).
We stayed in the rain too. It felt like a cool shower!
I completely understand. I agonized over packing last fall for a trip to Argentina, and paid more attention to the Argentina experiences I imagined than the ones that we actually engaged in. I give myself a D minus on packing and it was so frustrating to get dressed every day, thinking wistfully of all of the better options I had left at home!
I thoroughly enjoyed this post, thank you!
Same!!! I do have most of the right things, they’re just at home.
Oh I sympathize with you, Jennifer. I really hate heat and humidity and have a lot of trouble trying to keep it all together. The proper clothing makes such a huge difference and at some point, the fabulous outfit I have planned for just goes out the window and I go back to something loose and comfortable that is presentable. Then, feet swelling from the heat defeats all the cute shoes and I have to rely on a reliable, but unexciting sandal.
Your visit really looks wonderful and I appreciate your sharing it with us. Putting Singapore on my wish list, just mentally noting to try to find the coolest, driest time to visit.
Loved your travel blog! We are huge Tauck clients and it has never disappointed. Enjoy every minute!
Tauck is doing such an amazing job!!
WOW!! So much beauty to take in. The architecture alone has me swooning.
It’s just stunning here.
You will love Tauck. We have used several tour companies over the years and feel Tauck went above and beyond.
Tauck is really amazing. They pay great attention to all thesmall details.
Beautiful. I can only imagine the heat and humidity. You looked great.
I was melting 🙂
Hi Jennifer, I loved this post! It’s great when bloggers step away from their routine and show us something different. I loved the photos of the architecture and all of the information on Singapore. Real-life fashion information while traveling is so helpful! Thank you for your insights into Singapore and how much of a role it played in your wardrobe while there.
Adorable picture of you with your Muji!
He was so funny
It’s a fabulous dress. I think they’re also in the US so I’ll be looking into them more.