Adventures in Singapore and a Packing Wakeup Call
We’ve been soaking up the sights, and the Wi-Fi has been persnickety, so Monday Musings had to wait. Today I’m sharing our personal Singapore travel diary, along with a few hard-earned lessons in dressing for humidity.
We arrived in Singapore on very little sleep and were thrilled to check into the Raffles Hotel. We’ve never been on a Tauck tour before, but this felt like a pretty fabulous promise of things to come.
Raffles Hotel Singapore opened its doors in 1887 and remains one of the few grand 19th-century hotels still operating worldwide. What began as a 10-room waterfront bungalow has grown into an expansive, multi-winged, 115-suite landmark, with the kind of proportions that make modern hotel rooms feel like storage closets with better lighting.
The hotel was named for Sir Stamford Raffles, the British colonial official credited with founding modern Singapore. He had nothing to do with the hotel itself, which opened decades later in 1887, but attaching his name to it gave the property an immediate connection to Singapore’s colonial history.
The building is a grand example of British colonial tropical architecture, with white arcades, deep verandas, high ceilings, courtyards, and shaded walkways designed for heat, humidity, and a slower pace of life before air conditioning took over. The hotel also has a tucked-away rooftop pool, which feels slightly unexpected in such a historic property, but very welcome after a day in Singapore’s heat.
The hotel’s most recent major restoration was completed in 2019, reportedly costing about $150 million, preserving the historic character while bringing the rooms and public spaces firmly into the present.
Each suite comes with a dedicated butler, introduced after check-in and available around the clock during your stay. The scale of the place is part of the experience, from the generous suites to the broad verandas, courtyards, and open spaces that give the hotel its unmistakable old-world presence.
We changed and headed out to tour the National Orchid Garden, which was stunning. I quickly discovered I hadn’t packed enough breezy dresses or skirts to handle the high temperatures and oppressive humidity. I also decided sleeveless tops were the only way to go, and was glad I’d packed a few. Here we are inside the Orchid Garden Cool House, where people were lingering for a long time before moving along, us included.
One of the most recognizable sights at Raffles is the liveried Sikh doorman at the entrance. Dressed in a crisp white military-style uniform and white turban, he’s part of the hotel’s long tradition and serves as something of an ambassador for the property. Ours was very funny, and happy to oblige when we asked for a photo.
On our second day, we took a long walking tour of some of Singapore’s historic sites, and my UPF 50 umbrella came out. I’m so glad I packed it because hats get unbearably hot after an hour or so.
After wandering around for what felt like an eternity, then hopped onto a bumboat cruise along the Singapore River. The river was once the busy commercial heart of Singapore, lined with warehouses, trading boats, and merchants. Today, it’s much more polished, with restaurants, restored quays, and gleaming towers along the banks.
I was mostly grateful to be sitting down by then, because a walking tour in Singapore’s heat is not for the casually hydrated.
That afternoon, we went to Spago at Marina Bay Sands, Wolfgang Puck’s first Spago location in Asia. Perched on the 57th floor of Tower 2, it overlooks the city from one of Singapore’s most recognizable buildings, the one that looks like a giant surfboard balanced across the top of three towers. The food was outstanding.
As we left, I got a view of the infinity pool on the roof, which I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t enjoy because I’m not a fan of heights.
After a long day traipsing around Singapore, I needed a fresh shower and clean clothes for dinner at a local Italian restaurant.
This loose, tent-like linen dress was just what I needed, and I wore it the next day.
Day two started with a trip to the Maxwell Food Market, which I assumed had more than food. Uh, no. Our friends ate there and thought it was great. I’m not a brave eater, so I stuck to fresh coconut water.
Next, wandered around more, then grabbed a cab to Parkview Square, often called Singapore’s Gotham Building. It’s a dramatic Art Deco-style office building made with all dark stone, bronze details, statues, and architectural drama. It was completed in 2002, but it looks as if Batman might have held a board meeting there in 1935.
Inside is Atlas Bar, which is just as dramatic, with soaring ceilings, gilded details, and a gin collection so extensive it feels less like a bar and more like a very glamorous library. I discovered a pink rose lemonade that I can source at home.
By this point, I was just a messy puddle, so we headed back to the hotel for another shower before dinner, because our flight was leaving way too early the next morning.
What I learned very quickly is that Singapore is not the place for optimistic packing. Heat and humidity make every fabric choice matter, and the pieces I reached for most were loose, light, sleeveless, and easy to wash or rewear. If you’re heading somewhere tropical, pack for the weather you’ll actually be walking in, not the version you imagined while standing in your closet at home.
I loved Singapore, but it definitely reminded me that travel style isn’t about looking perfect. It’s about staying comfortable enough to enjoy where you are.
So exciting!!! Thanks for sharing your travels. I would definitely be in that pool.
Hi Jennifer!
I haven’t written to you before this, but I just wanted to say that I do enjoy your blog. I’m 74 and I am learning new things from reading what you share–thanks so much! I loved the title, “My Suitcase Underestimated Singapore”–I had to laugh a bit because my memory of our trip to Singapore was from 25 years ago in the month of May, too!
My husband and I were invited by our good friend to be as the ‘dad and mom’, a prominent position standing up for his wedding to a woman from Singapore that he had met online. I had to wear a long gown all day, and my husband wore a suit and tie. We traveled in those clothes from one place to another –tea ceremony, huge reception dinner, and more–and endured it – smiling the whole time!! The heat and humidity had us feeling quite damp all day long -and it was challenging for my hair and makeup to look good, but that’s how it had to be!
We traveled the long way to Singapore from Illinois. It was amazingly fun to experience Singapore culture. We loved exploring some of the same places you just wrote about, too!
I totally enjoyed reading your blog today! Your photos were wonderful, too!! Thank you so much!!
What an amazing experience and honor for both of you.
Thanks for sharing your travel and clothing choices! What a beautiful place!
Thanks for this post-very enjoyable! It’s a nice change and loved learning a bit about Singapore. I wonder what time of year is best to go there to not get humidity? Or perhaps it’s always that way? Enjoy and keep posting!
I think this may be the best time of year to visit.
I was in Singapore in the 1970s. It is my very favorite country! It is not only immaculately clean but it smells wonderful. And, yes, it is very humid there…Thank you for sharing your beautiful photos. They brought back wonderful memories.
I have been to Singapore…I know that humidity! Lightweight, loose cotton/linen is the name of the game. And TAUCK is the best!
I agree, Tauck is amazing.
We just returned from a trip to Italy with Tauck. It was outstanding!! We live in SW Florida and I feel your pain about dressing for the humidity. Linen and gauze are my summer staples. I loved the travel post. Please keep sharing!
That sounds like an amazing trip!
Thanks so much for sharing your trip with us. I love all the photos.
We were in Singapore in January and loved it. Did our own walking tours of the Muslim quarter and Chinatown, went to the fabulous Gardens by the Bay. Every underground subway station has a food court with foods from around the world, delicious and cheap!
Thanks so much for your travel post, Jennifer. Singapore has some beautiful architecture and sights. Thanks for sharing photos of your beautiful hotel. I have a work colleague who always takes Tauck tours so I will definitely check them out. I can imagine how you feel in that heat and humidity. I experienced that in Port Douglas, Australia which has tropical weather in February– I much prefer dry heat. I laughed at your description of yourself as a “messy puddle” as I can relate. I always pack with high aspirations too, no matter how hard I try. However, the dresses you packed look like excellent selections. Look forward to hear more of your travels.
I prefer dry heat too!
I am not nearly as adventurous as you and my husband even less! That being said- I LOVE your travel posts and they help with the travel we do!
Being on a tour like this makes all the difference. They plan everything and guide you in and out of all the airports and hotels.
We are devoted Tauckies! We no longer travel with anyone else (except ocean cruises when it’s with Regent, but if Tauck ever does ocean, we will use them)!
So glad you are able to experience what the rest of us Tauckies already know….
My husband still says the best almond croissant he ever had was at Raffles breakfast in Singapore!
I aspire to go on more of their tours!!
Thank you for this post. Travel posts are always welcome; maybe someday I’ll get there too.
Great tip about the sun umbrella. I’m off to Amazon to buy one for summer here.
They’re fabulous! I have a few non folding ones at home and love how cool they keep you.
Your last paragraph was perfect. Put all the hand wringing aside about what’s in your suitcase and just enjoy the experience. Great blog today!
Yes!!
Thank you for the reminder that travel fashion ideals shouldn’t dominate the travel! I feel stuck trying to choose and pack an IG worthy travel wardrobe, which sometimes just doesn’t suit the realities of extreme walking and the weather!
Exactly. Comfort and appropriate for the situation is more important than trying to look like a fashion plate.
Fun and funny post! Looks to be a fabulous trip, stay safe and cool. Rose lemonade + gin is looking mighty good right now……I see Whole Foods has a variation of it in stock. Travel is a passion of mine, and I will be traveling to Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Thailand next year.
Whole Foods? I’ll be checking it out at home.
Loved seeing your photos of Singapore. Fifty five years ago, my husband and I spent New Year’s in Singapore. We had a Singapore Sling at Raffles and took a boat cruise as you have. Back in the day, the airport in Singapore had a row of barber chairs as Customs would dictate if men’s hair was too long to enter the city state. We were newlyweds when my husband was assigned to the Army in Bangkok. That was an adventure for two years.
Loved seeing your photos of Singapore. Fifty five years ago, my husband and I spent New Year’s in Singapore. We were newlyweds when my husband was assigned to the Army in Bangkok. That was an adventure for two years.
How wonderful!
Muji is on Robson in Vancouver too! They sell lots of homewards too.
Wonderful photos of Singapore. Thanks so much.
Awesome!! Thanks so much, I’ll be checking it out.
Jennifer,
Love seeing all your travel adventures. Tauck is the best, we did a Paris to Normandy river boat and have booked a Tauck Japan land trip for next April. We have been to Singapore and remember the oppressive heat and always wanting to find a cool place to sit down. Don’t forget to have a Singapore Sling at Raffles Hotel. Try to stay cool, you look great in all your pictures.
Japan sounds amazing! It’s one of my favorite destinations and I bet Tauck does an amazing job.