Adventures in Singapore and a Packing Wakeup Call
We’ve been soaking up the sights, and the Wi-Fi has been persnickety, so Monday Musings had to wait. Today I’m sharing our personal Singapore travel diary, along with a few hard-earned lessons in dressing for humidity.
We arrived in Singapore on very little sleep and were thrilled to check into the Raffles Hotel. We’ve never been on a Tauck tour before, but this felt like a pretty fabulous promise of things to come.
Raffles Hotel Singapore opened its doors in 1887 and remains one of the few grand 19th-century hotels still operating worldwide. What began as a 10-room waterfront bungalow has grown into an expansive, multi-winged, 115-suite landmark, with the kind of proportions that make modern hotel rooms feel like storage closets with better lighting.
The hotel was named for Sir Stamford Raffles, the British colonial official credited with founding modern Singapore. He had nothing to do with the hotel itself, which opened decades later in 1887, but attaching his name to it gave the property an immediate connection to Singapore’s colonial history.
The building is a grand example of British colonial tropical architecture, with white arcades, deep verandas, high ceilings, courtyards, and shaded walkways designed for heat, humidity, and a slower pace of life before air conditioning took over. The hotel also has a tucked-away rooftop pool, which feels slightly unexpected in such a historic property, but very welcome after a day in Singapore’s heat.
The hotel’s most recent major restoration was completed in 2019, reportedly costing about $150 million, preserving the historic character while bringing the rooms and public spaces firmly into the present.
Each suite comes with a dedicated butler, introduced after check-in and available around the clock during your stay. The scale of the place is part of the experience, from the generous suites to the broad verandas, courtyards, and open spaces that give the hotel its unmistakable old-world presence.
We changed and headed out to tour the National Orchid Garden, which was stunning. I quickly discovered I hadn’t packed enough breezy dresses or skirts to handle the high temperatures and oppressive humidity. I also decided sleeveless tops were the only way to go, and was glad I’d packed a few. Here we are inside the Orchid Garden Cool House, where people were lingering for a long time before moving along, us included.
One of the most recognizable sights at Raffles is the liveried Sikh doorman at the entrance. Dressed in a crisp white military-style uniform and white turban, he’s part of the hotel’s long tradition and serves as something of an ambassador for the property. Ours was very funny, and happy to oblige when we asked for a photo.
On our second day, we took a long walking tour of some of Singapore’s historic sites, and my UPF 50 umbrella came out. I’m so glad I packed it because hats get unbearably hot after an hour or so.
After wandering around for what felt like an eternity, then hopped onto a bumboat cruise along the Singapore River. The river was once the busy commercial heart of Singapore, lined with warehouses, trading boats, and merchants. Today, it’s much more polished, with restaurants, restored quays, and gleaming towers along the banks.
I was mostly grateful to be sitting down by then, because a walking tour in Singapore’s heat is not for the casually hydrated.
That afternoon, we went to Spago at Marina Bay Sands, Wolfgang Puck’s first Spago location in Asia. Perched on the 57th floor of Tower 2, it overlooks the city from one of Singapore’s most recognizable buildings, the one that looks like a giant surfboard balanced across the top of three towers. The food was outstanding.
As we left, I got a view of the infinity pool on the roof, which I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t enjoy because I’m not a fan of heights.
After a long day traipsing around Singapore, I needed a fresh shower and clean clothes for dinner at a local Italian restaurant.
This loose, tent-like linen dress was just what I needed, and I wore it the next day.
Day two started with a trip to the Maxwell Food Market, which I assumed had more than food. Uh, no. Our friends ate there and thought it was great. I’m not a brave eater, so I stuck to fresh coconut water.
Next, wandered around more, then grabbed a cab to Parkview Square, often called Singapore’s Gotham Building. It’s a dramatic Art Deco-style office building made with all dark stone, bronze details, statues, and architectural drama. It was completed in 2002, but it looks as if Batman might have held a board meeting there in 1935.
Inside is Atlas Bar, which is just as dramatic, with soaring ceilings, gilded details, and a gin collection so extensive it feels less like a bar and more like a very glamorous library. I discovered a pink rose lemonade that I can source at home.
By this point, I was just a messy puddle, so we headed back to the hotel for another shower before dinner, because our flight was leaving way too early the next morning.
What I learned very quickly is that Singapore is not the place for optimistic packing. Heat and humidity make every fabric choice matter, and the pieces I reached for most were loose, light, sleeveless, and easy to wash or rewear. If you’re heading somewhere tropical, pack for the weather you’ll actually be walking in, not the version you imagined while standing in your closet at home.
I loved Singapore, but it definitely reminded me that travel style isn’t about looking perfect. It’s about staying comfortable enough to enjoy where you are.
Beautiful!! Loved the pics and descriptions!! Thanks for sharing and giving us the opportunity to experience the wonders of Singapore vicariously through your eyes!
I enjoyed your photos and thanks so much for sharing your experience with the climate as well as the stunning photo glimpses of your trip! We will be traveling with Tauck for the first time this fall and so glad to read the positive review of yours and some in the comments.
They’re a fabulous tour company! Have a wonderful time. Where are you going?
Love the travel diary. Hope it continues during your trip. Have a lovely time
I live in Atlanta and need one of those umbrellas. Which color did you get?
White. I felt it would reflect the most heat.
I really loved seeing your pictures. I have the purse you are carrying and was debating whether it was too big to bring on my sightseeing vacation. Were you happy with it or did you wish you brought something smaller? I also have the Waverly 2 and Pearl on your recommendation.
I also brought my Waverly. This is a tad big for around my waist but I did it many days so the versatility is fabulous. The bag is so light, it’s been great to stuff with my fan, sunglasses, bug wipes, sun screen, water bottle, hat if need be too.
Thanks for sharing! What a wonderful adventure!
Singapore looks amazing! Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to your next destination!!
My mother traveled there in the early 90s and said it was the cleanest most beautiful city she had ever traveled to. She lived in Tampa Florida so the humidity wasn’t as harsh an issue for her.
Your hotel is absolutely stunning! Old world charm, beautiful! Thank you for the gorgeous photos. You looked great, not dripping at all! I’m used to 7-10% humidity here in southern Colorado. Going from a high dry climate to a very hot humid climate would be something I could not do. I will travel vicariously through your wonderful blog Jennifer. Be safe.
The humidity is tough for sure.
The pictures are stunning, I would love to go there! I live in South Florida, so humidity here is pretty shocking if you aren’t used to it. I look at catalogs with summer clothes, and I used to work as a manager with women’s clothing, and I would shake my head. They didn’t get it. Seasons don’t translate to all areas. It’s so hot/humid here that for me being comfortable is higher on my list than fashion. If you can get both, that’s great. Sleeveless and loose is the way to go.
Hi, thanks for the travelog! We recently came back from uber-humid Melanasia, the humid and extreme UV were a major challenge, especially for sensitive skin.
I did see you thought that wide leg jeans may have been a better choice, but I’ll atest to the fact that they are a no go. They swish and cling to your moist legs, I can only say it was gross and I could hardly wait to take them off!
Ah, that makes total sense about any jeans.
Thanks for sharing your travel story! We are traveling to Universal with kids and grandkids at the end of June- your reminder about packing for humidity was helpful! I am already re-thinking what I was planning on packing!
Good idea!
Jennifer, I thoroughly enjoyed your travel blog today! Lucky you to be able to travel to such a wonderful place. Here’s a question for you. If you were to repack for this trip, what would you have left home and what would you have taken instead? The reason I ask is I was wondering if the black and navy items you wore retained the heat? Somehow I always think that dark colors will make me feel hot in the summer. So my first instinct is to wear white and light colors when I know I am going to travel to hot and humid places.
Interestingly, the black and navy items felt very similar to white and they allowed me to skip a slip which was very helpful.
So glad you had a memorable time in Singapore. It is splendid, especially when you think about what the country has accomplished on its little island at the southern end of the Malay Peninsula. Air conditioning certainly helped. We just returned, last month, from a week there, after two weeks of sailing in Thailand (same weather — being on the water didn’t help much). I did warn you about the heat and humidity — but there’s no way to explain how brutal it really is. One just has to experience it! The orchid garden is just spectacular, and we did love the cool house, where we lingered. I do worry about the doormen at Raffle’s Hotel — how can they stand being dressed the way they are, in this weather? And this is considered the “cool” season! Ha!
You did! Next time I will be more prepared.
Great pictures, Jennifer! Thanks for taking us along to Singapore. I live in eastern NC and our summers are hot and humid. It’s currently 90F with a feels like of 95F. From May to September, I usually wear a loose linen or cotton dress or skirt, and even with short or 3/4 sleeve length, I stay much cooler than wearing anything that touches my body. Definitely no jeans until October. Earrings only because necklaces and bracelets touching me make me even hotter and stickier. I’m going to look into your UPF umbrella because you are absolutely correct that hats get really hot.
Thanks for sharing about your vacation. I really appreciate it.
My husband and I are thinking about a Singapore trip.
It is an amazing country. I would definitely come back. It’s clean, organized, safe, and beautiful.
Excited to read about your trip! Thanks so much!
I’ve never been to Singapore and know I never will be, so I especially loved your travel blog! The photos and information are great. I had to laugh at the beginning when you talk about appropriate makeup for heat and humidity as I experienced the same thing in a tropical climate several years ago. As you said, it’s not about looking perfect but enjoying the experiences.
I love your travel adventures and travel wardrobe assessments!
Beautiful hotel! And your picures are amazing!
I looked at the Raffles Hotel Singapore and Tauck websites. Everything looks lovely but the cost is prohibitive for probably most people. Perhaps for a special occasion or the trip of a lifetime. You were brave in taking a trip to such a warm climate!
Hi Mary, Many people take these tours. As with clothing budgets, each woman’s budget is different.