Adventures in Singapore and a Packing Wakeup Call
We’ve been soaking up the sights, and the Wi-Fi has been persnickety, so Monday Musings had to wait. Today I’m sharing our personal Singapore travel diary, along with a few hard-earned lessons in dressing for humidity.
We arrived in Singapore on very little sleep and were thrilled to check into the Raffles Hotel. We’ve never been on a Tauck tour before, but this felt like a pretty fabulous promise of things to come.
Raffles Hotel Singapore opened its doors in 1887 and remains one of the few grand 19th-century hotels still operating worldwide. What began as a 10-room waterfront bungalow has grown into an expansive, multi-winged, 115-suite landmark, with the kind of proportions that make modern hotel rooms feel like storage closets with better lighting.
The hotel was named for Sir Stamford Raffles, the British colonial official credited with founding modern Singapore. He had nothing to do with the hotel itself, which opened decades later in 1887, but attaching his name to it gave the property an immediate connection to Singapore’s colonial history.
The building is a grand example of British colonial tropical architecture, with white arcades, deep verandas, high ceilings, courtyards, and shaded walkways designed for heat, humidity, and a slower pace of life before air conditioning took over. The hotel also has a tucked-away rooftop pool, which feels slightly unexpected in such a historic property, but very welcome after a day in Singapore’s heat.
The hotel’s most recent major restoration was completed in 2019, reportedly costing about $150 million, preserving the historic character while bringing the rooms and public spaces firmly into the present.
Each suite comes with a dedicated butler, introduced after check-in and available around the clock during your stay. The scale of the place is part of the experience, from the generous suites to the broad verandas, courtyards, and open spaces that give the hotel its unmistakable old-world presence.
We changed and headed out to tour the National Orchid Garden, which was stunning. I quickly discovered I hadn’t packed enough breezy dresses or skirts to handle the high temperatures and oppressive humidity. I also decided sleeveless tops were the only way to go, and was glad I’d packed a few. Here we are inside the Orchid Garden Cool House, where people were lingering for a long time before moving along, us included.
One of the most recognizable sights at Raffles is the liveried Sikh doorman at the entrance. Dressed in a crisp white military-style uniform and white turban, he’s part of the hotel’s long tradition and serves as something of an ambassador for the property. Ours was very funny, and happy to oblige when we asked for a photo.
On our second day, we took a long walking tour of some of Singapore’s historic sites, and my UPF 50 umbrella came out. I’m so glad I packed it because hats get unbearably hot after an hour or so.
After wandering around for what felt like an eternity, then hopped onto a bumboat cruise along the Singapore River. The river was once the busy commercial heart of Singapore, lined with warehouses, trading boats, and merchants. Today, it’s much more polished, with restaurants, restored quays, and gleaming towers along the banks.
I was mostly grateful to be sitting down by then, because a walking tour in Singapore’s heat is not for the casually hydrated.
That afternoon, we went to Spago at Marina Bay Sands, Wolfgang Puck’s first Spago location in Asia. Perched on the 57th floor of Tower 2, it overlooks the city from one of Singapore’s most recognizable buildings, the one that looks like a giant surfboard balanced across the top of three towers. The food was outstanding.
As we left, I got a view of the infinity pool on the roof, which I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t enjoy because I’m not a fan of heights.
After a long day traipsing around Singapore, I needed a fresh shower and clean clothes for dinner at a local Italian restaurant.
This loose, tent-like linen dress was just what I needed, and I wore it the next day.
Day two started with a trip to the Maxwell Food Market, which I assumed had more than food. Uh, no. Our friends ate there and thought it was great. I’m not a brave eater, so I stuck to fresh coconut water.
Next, wandered around more, then grabbed a cab to Parkview Square, often called Singapore’s Gotham Building. It’s a dramatic Art Deco-style office building made with all dark stone, bronze details, statues, and architectural drama. It was completed in 2002, but it looks as if Batman might have held a board meeting there in 1935.
Inside is Atlas Bar, which is just as dramatic, with soaring ceilings, gilded details, and a gin collection so extensive it feels less like a bar and more like a very glamorous library. I discovered a pink rose lemonade that I can source at home.
By this point, I was just a messy puddle, so we headed back to the hotel for another shower before dinner, because our flight was leaving way too early the next morning.
What I learned very quickly is that Singapore is not the place for optimistic packing. Heat and humidity make every fabric choice matter, and the pieces I reached for most were loose, light, sleeveless, and easy to wash or rewear. If you’re heading somewhere tropical, pack for the weather you’ll actually be walking in, not the version you imagined while standing in your closet at home.
I loved Singapore, but it definitely reminded me that travel style isn’t about looking perfect. It’s about staying comfortable enough to enjoy where you are.
I’m very late reading this post but I loved it so much. The pictures were beautiful and your comments were fun and insightful. Great advice about travelling for where you’re going, not what you’re imaging it to be like. So tremendously helpful.
I have a clear image of sailing into Singapore on a small cargo passenger ship when I was about five years old. Then it was covered in jungle with houses dotted here and there. We went to Raffles with some friends of my parents who lived there and I was so impressed by the Sikh at the door. I have been back since and would swear it was the same man!
The heat and humidity can be pretty overwhelming but regular stops in air conditioned cafes for cold drinks helped. Hope you enjoy Bali – also hot and humid.
What an amazing memory!!
What a wonderful trip. Thank you for taking us along.
Malaysia was the same/similar in October, and I really had packed appropriately. Brutal! My umbrella and portable fan were also indispensable. Your photos are gorgeous, and I have heard Tauck is fabulous! I am going to check out that lemonade.
Reading your travel journal of Singapore brought back wonderful memories of our trip there about 10 years ago. Beautiful city, so clean and easy to get around. Looking forward to reading about the next leg of your trip.
So interesting. Thank you for sharing.
I loved this post! I lived in Singapore for 4 1/2 years – it was a fabulous experience. And yes it is very hot all year long! Looks like you hit the key sights – I am just sorry you missed eating in the hawker stands (food market) – truly one of the best experiences! Next time!
What a lovely place to vacation. Your pictures were all amazing.
Living Australia, I have been to Singapore many times, and yes, you have to pack for comfort rather than fashion. If you can achieve both that is a win win. If you felt the humidity was bad in their dry season, don’t contemplate going in December/ January, it really is unbearable
Thanks for the tip!
Dear Jennifer,
Thank you so much for the delightful tour of Singapore…beautiful photography and a treat for the eyes. Your tips on dressing comfortably for the location, and not how you look in the mirror at your home, are so true, especially in a humid environment. By the way, you still look fabulous in the heat and humidity.
Love your blogs.
Louise
Thank you Louise!
Lived near Singapore in Kuala Lumpur, so I’m well aware of the heat and humidity – thank God for air conditioning!! Sounds like you still managed to enjoy your vacation and loved your travelogue. Anxious to hear more!
Yes, the AC is a blessing!
Thanks for taking us along in your travels! So interesting and great advice!
Loved seeing your photos of Singapore; we were there in October about 13 years ago. Tauck is a wonderful company. We’ve done land tours, river cruises and are booked on a Windjammer cruise with Tauck next September.
They’re fabulous. Many of the people in our group have gone on 10, 15, 20 and over 30 Tauck tours. I didn’t know what I was missing.
I travel to Australia often and I’ve accumulated my tropical wardrobe. No fabrics are as light and breathable as those I I find in Australia. Not even in southern Florida! I pack them just for tropical vacations. The items were all purchased in Australia!
My favorite is a dress I call my hiking dress. I bought it at a food market the day before our hike. I actually jumped in a natural water pool in Daintree Rain Forest, dress and all. It dried quickly, even in the humidity.
That’s amazing Mudra! I now see a travel wardrobe to this area in a whole new light.
I think I DISCOVERED your blog (& Susan Blakely’s) back in 2019 while prepping for a trip to Europe, & have been a fan ever since! I will enjoy all the travel-related info you care to share!
As stated above: “Real-life fashion information while traveling is so helpful! Thank you for your insights into Singapore and how much of a role it played in your wardrobe while there.”
I am not a heat or humidity fan either (I hate multi-showers-needed days!) & will be closely reading as I prep for an August Med cruise……….. I SWORE never Europe in the summer again, but it looked like the best value for the Solar Eclipse!
I hope your trip continues fabulously & Bali is just as gorgeous as I’d imagine!
I’m curious about your purse.
It looks like a great travel size, especially when you mention the need for your portable fan. Loved your post. It was so interesting.
It’s been really handy because the strap is adjustable. I even carry it strapped around my waist which isn’t a great look but handy on long walking tours. I do think a backpack would have been smarter.
Jennifer, Love your travel journal and beautiful photos! I especially enjoyed the surfboard buildings one! The orchids must have been gorgeous and so fragrant! So glad you could pivot and buy such a cutie, cooling dress at the market! Thanks for sharing all of your adventures—looking forward to more!
Singapore ,one of my favourite cities, so safe. the food amazing the home of Satay.
Tauck tours are fab . i have done 2
I saw your pic and immediately recognized The Raffles! I lived in Singapore as an expat and my heart is still there. Would move back without any hesitation. Looks like you hit all the highlights and I’m glad you had a marvelous trip. My heart is full seeing your pics and smiles. Thanks for sharing!
Singapore is an amazing place I could easily see living in. Clean, safe, full of amazing things and lovely people. Lucky you to have experienced that.
Wonderful! Enjoyed everything about your travel post. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences.
Enjoy the remainder of your travels,
Suzanne